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Author Topic: Georgia Shop Technicians Ran Briggs Mower Engine ONLY Water In Carburetor 2008  (Read 11811 times)
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Posts: 112

Nathren and the 3 tech people in Georgia , 2005-2019, used the brand name (Power On Board), for the 3 types of inverters they used.  750Watt, 400Watt and I just ordered the other one called 150W as the plug in types for cigarette lighter.( DC to 120v AC) The small one may be important because,, with the outer plastic casing removed, The switching transistor circuit would FIT INSIDE the plastic deli tub on side of Briggs 18HP. Remember, 100 volts is also required to add to the low voltage main power and 6-10 amps, as going to spark plug along with the high voltage. There is a starting mode where flywheel turns slowly, and engine idling mode at faster RPMS. At both modes , the 100v is required and as DC with bridge rectification. Series current limiter resistor also put in, as it is not the main power source.
 My other idea was to hook up a tiny PC Board type miniature relay with 2 sets of contacts, with 12v DC coil, to act as a vibrator with capacitor added. Nathren had said in the web forum, that there was no capacitor in his circuit! He however, being non-technical person , may have meant "condenser" , as a play on words! Sen me your comments and questions. I will try to keep you updated.
   
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The 2 insulated wires used in the S1R coils assembly were taken by Nathren from a used harness of riding lawn mower chassis. This is the exact same. I know, since I bought the Briggs harness for reference. #14 gauge insulated stranded wires as red and Gray. He even mounted a USED steel nail, as it was bent. (see photo). My contention is still, that the joint on the S1r coils had 3 wires together. When Nathren tore off the 3rd wire to take unit in house for picture, he used knife instead of proper "wire stripper cutter". The proper tool makes a clean straight cut, not leaving frayed copper wire ends exposed. You must refer again - see-  the blow-up photo and see the angle BACKWARDS of "folded" Gray + red colored wires. The 3rd one sticks straight out frayed . The thickness of the tape wrapping is also too large also for just 2 wires. When the other take apart video started , he placed unit on table , as same one with BENT nail. The joint was changed beforehand , so as the public would not see the 3rd stub wire fall out during the take apart video.

The other notion had to do with him saying that the Inverter box could not be used with the S1r coils. It would just bog down and quit. That there assumes he had already tested the Inverter on the Briggs engine. He just LEFT the Inverter disconnected and the extension cord ,in the background of the 2 videos , instead of removing them before hand. The brown extension cord as a "Y" is also there connected to ground. The cord would act as a very LONG wire when you bridge together the male plug end with wire jumper or metal piece. I spent a very long time on this stuff. This hook up with extension cord is same as was used on all the car engines. Return line direct to ground under spark plug, not through an engine casting. - Helps with the time in milliseconds and lower resistance.
   
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Posts: 112
the several statements made by Nathren and Nathren's son Nathren, is that all earlier CONVERTED car engines were readjusted for timing to  A T D C   to about negative 34 degrees , as that approximate point allowed the engines to run smoother and  provided water vapor pressure as a secondary force on piston, as generated at the lower end of piston travel. On the 18HP mower engine , the 13 turns wire over steel core section WITH the cable,  as electromagnet provided magnetic field on the high volts cable and caused the spark time to be extended in milliseconds. He said to add more or less turns , so as to get the best setting for running engine. My own improvement design over his S1R9A9M9 coils assembly was to make the adjustment variable by varying amount of core under #14 wire + cable, as a pull handle. (Like turning loosened distributor on car engine) Hydrogen gas used in standard engine requires way late timing . I also increased the number of turns as per ratio change required, when changing from original 10 A current to 6 A current, to maintain the same magnetic field level. . Car engines are 4 cycle as well as the Briggs engine, but it has waste spark cycle that does no harm to a running engine.
Each engine will run slightly different and a blanket statement cannot be made, as they all will require adjustment in different timing points. Nathren had made statement as to the available special degrees flywheel keys as used for different timing on Briggs engines. They all , however, are only for the small Briggs animal racing engine flywheels. I don't think he knew that. The Georgia technicians did not modify Briggs factory timing, other than adding magnetic field. I just assumed they were too lazy to machine a curved aluminum , slotted, mounting plate for Magnetron, as for being adjustable timing thereafter with screws and nuts repositioning.
I am presently testing my latest S1R coils as 10kv cable included, rather than bare wire or insulated hook up wire, or 30Kv cable,  so as for getting a constant recurring 100v leakage transfer without shorting. The wooden flywheel arrangement with Briggs ignition works well with series inductor coil and diodes. Later, I will blend in DC current to spark plug with water solution and protective diodes section. The water solution presents ohms resistance and would raise up the input voltage required, as also tiny electrodes.

 One of the original web forum paragraphs by Nathren , said in broken words, that there were other parts than the S1R coils in the plastic tub on side of mower engine!!!!!!! This was when he and son stopped saying anything more their set up as too much attention was received, and non-knowledgeable people had gotten hurt trying to duplicate his engine set up.
 
When the man, "Smack ",  showed up, at his property after 1000 miles driving, the episode was on video tape and we could see what was going on. The wiring on failed running 18HP was not done the same as during the 2 successful You tube videos of 2008.

The Nathren back porch engine test was wrong also, as he was attempting to run engine with S1R coil as in induction type mode,- not with current output going direct to spark plug as needed. In one of the published answers to people's questions, way back in time, he said the output 12v current wire WAS CONNECTED to spark plug . (not repeated again)
   
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Posts: 112

The only way to increase the high volts of lawnmower Magnetron ignition coil, is to bolt on another piece of laminations with a wire coil. The output of 1st secondary will be added to the next coil as an extension. The same magnetic flux is there, same time. There are differences in ignitions of the past . Some have higher secondary Henry inductance and ohms resistance, meaning there would be slightly higher output ignition volts. It is way less costly to experiment with small engines , but they need 24kv minimum for plasma path for amperage to pass, and must be in milliseconds time, not microseconds as in C D I.
A much more involved method is a second, opposite pole magnet put on flywheel next to other one with an opposite balancing lead weight. The dual magnetos would make AC into primary of the "old" style plain transformer type ignition . The secondary side AC generated could then use the diode and capacitor voltage doubler. The STENS brand aftermarket trigger modules work with either polarity ignitions. 2 blocking diodes would also be needed.
A man on You tube video tests his Biggs Magnetrons coils on bench with AC activated coils on old shaver laminations mounted next to the ignition laminations. The transposing magnetic flux runs the main ignition coil for spark. (trigger not tested)
 
   
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Posts: 112
2008 S1R9A9M9 Georgia Water Engine
 
I have some more tech data for you to consume. See also sheet Inverter output described by A I.
I finally figured out why the green 400watt Inverter was not used. It was used OK on all previous car engines. Statement said it bogged down and quit as the attempt on operating Briggs 18HP. The You tube videos showed unit in background only,  unconnected with clips on ground. It was placed there to mislead public. The engine started and ran in both videos. Previous MULTI CYLINDERS engines had used majority of wattage from 400W Inverter. The one cylinder mower engine required less watts power. The tech people used the brand power on board for 750W and 400W inverters. A  MUCH SMALLER SIZE INVERTER FOR 110V AC WAS PURCHASED JUST FOR THE VIDEOS.  The way "small" box fits in rear hole of cement block during the demonstrations. The 400W box does not!! The engine vertical shaft is in same hole rotating with great clearance from box.  (box 3.3" X 3.3"300Watts)  (They could of put the larger Inverter box in depression at ground level with cement block on top.) The demonstrations were  keeping people from knowing all. Parts were not exposed. Parts were purposely kept in sealed plastic tub and also spray painted to keep eyes out. The Inverter pre made, allows the required 100 volts , due to the tiny electrodes of spark plug. The 10 amps initially came from car battery, then once engine running idle, battery removed, then the double alternators took over to run the conversion circuit.
 Dual alternators with just full wave rectification , without voltage regulator, provides higher volts and about 14.5 amps output capability.
Here goes-- The positive battery cable clip touches starter terminal to run starter motor. Separate wire is also there going behind engine through diode. The input to inverter in cement hole, attaches to cathode side of diode. The diode prevents alternator from running starter. The alternator DC runs Inverter also, when battery removed.
The S1R9A9M9 electromagnet provided magnetic field over ignition cable ( bare copper section) to form late timing from zero to about minus 34 degrees. The amps came from battery, then alternator DC at idle speed. Resistor in tub to limit current for S1R coils. The plastic tub connections needed for ground came from the exterior extension cord that was modified for extra long single wire to ground , and jumping the male end plug.
 The S1R coils is 100% on all the time to keep magnetic field at spark plug in-between firings. The power pulses to spark plug is on + off about 34% for ON duty cycle. (Flywheel going around 360 degrees)
Plastic covered tub on side of Briggs engine contains S1r coils electromagnet, resistor, bridge rectifier for dual alternators, bridge rectifier for Inverter output, wire connectors, accessory spark gap, and wire joint putting output amps together with high volts going to modified zero ohms Champion spark plug.
All previous car engines had 2 spark gaps in main circuit. The distributor rotor firing gap and spark plug gap. It helps to insure the plug fires rather than misfire.
Mineral water was used for running mower engine with salt added  that came from creek on the Georgia property.
The dangerous ignition high voltage was on car battery only during the starting mode. (No series diodes protection bank)
I was stalled, hung up , for long time on the 100volts source, power current  means, difference between peak and average current, and higher high ignition volts.
I found it greatly interesting to use the old style large clip clip board with mechanical pencil/eraser, printer blank paper, to form diagrams and notes over long period of time . I have many titled folders on different subjects related to the S1r project.  (half cup of coffee helps)
I will later be working on separate circuit to remove the waste spark cycle of Briggs engine. one and zero up counter IC and reset using Hall Effect sensor.
Your comments will be appreciated.

« Last Edit: 2024-10-28, 22:02:29 by russwr »
   
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