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Author Topic: Bedini 10-Coil Alternative Discussion  (Read 72942 times)
Group: Guest
Rosemary:

You can have your belief system and I can have mine and we can agree to disagree.  With respect to where the burden of proof lies, mainstream is the elephant and the free energy experimenters are the fly on the elephant.  You might argue that the burden of proof is on my side, but for every step you take to promote any free energy proposition you are going to be reminded that the burden of proof is on your side.

In the case of a Bedini motor, in time-slice A the source battery energizes an inductor, and then in time-slice B, the inductor discharges into the charging battery once only, and then the cycle repeats itself.  I won't argue this point with you and if you don't believe me then I have to ask you to start a new thread about this topic or build yourself a Bedini motor and put a current-sensing resistor on the charging battery and see it for yourself.

We both agree that the bottom line is results and Jeff has shown zero results at this point in time.

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
Rosemary:

Quote
If the rotor turns AND there's an equivalence between what is coming from the battery and back to the battery - the rotor's turn is for free - and then there's evidence of something greater than 1.

Don't forget that there are two batteries.  I just stated that by definition it's impossible for more power to go into the charging battery as compared to the power that was drawn from the source battery because of the inescapable inefficiencies in the motor itself.  The bearing friction and the rotor friction form part of those inescapable inefficiencies.

Again, by definition, any machine just standing there, no matter how powerful it is, has a zero mechanical output unless you actually physically draw mechanical power from it.  It's like the motor is a "black box."  You have to physically connect something to the black box to get mechanical power from the black box.

As far as the lack of data on the other side of the Berlin Wall goes, my gut feel is that there is no data.  My assumption is that Jeff has done all his work on good faith, and has been too busy to actually test the 10-coiler and the battery swapper to see if it produces free energy.  If I am right, it's no surprise that Jeff doesn't even want to acknowledge the questions.  In the "real world" Jeff would have provided the test results himself without even having to be asked.

MileHigh
« Last Edit: 2010-12-01, 06:54:35 by MileHigh »
   
Group: Guest
Rosemary:

You can have your belief system and I can have mine and we can agree to disagree.  With respect to where the burden of proof lies, mainstream is the elephant and the free energy experimenters are the fly on the elephant.  You might argue that the burden of proof is on my side, but for every step you take to promote any free energy proposition you are going to be reminded that the burden of proof is on your side.
I hope that I'm not operating on any belief system MileHigh.  I rather look to the evidence.  And that elephant that you refer to - that great big elephant - in full musk - trumpeting on and on - let me tell you what it trumpets.  It trumpets the well proven theory related to INDUCTIVE LAWS.  There is NO LAW on STORED ENERGY.  That is the fly on the wall - the splinter in the foot - the wobble in the construct.  It's pure invention - based on a spurious BELIEF SYSTEM that has never been proven - ONLY LOOKED FOR.  And in looking for it - all have to wear sun shields - because the evidence will otherwise shine through and blind them.

In the case of a Bedini motor, in time-slice A the source battery energizes an inductor, and then in time-slice B, the inductor discharges into the charging battery once only, and then the cycle repeats itself.
 I agree.  But WHAT ABOUT THAT TURN IN THAT ROTOR?  Is this over and above.  I don't know from Stroud and I certainly won't hear this now from the Bedini group.

I won't argue this point with you and if you don't believe me then I have to ask you to start a new thread about this topic or build yourself a Bedini motor and put a current-sensing resistor on the charging battery and see it for yourself.
And this?  All you're telling me is that if I disagree then I must start a new thread?  That's CENSORSHIP MileHigh.  

We both agree that the bottom line is results and Jeff has shown zero results at this point in time.

Yes.  I agree with you here.  But only here.  And only because you've entirely discouraged him from showing anything at all.

Rosemary

ADDED and now edited.
« Last Edit: 2010-12-01, 06:51:34 by aetherevarising »
   
Group: Guest
Rosemary:

I suggest that you go to the Hyperphysics web site and read up on how energy is stored in an inductor.  You should spend a month on the Hyerphysics web site, it could be an excellent learning tool for you.  An inductor is basically identical to a mechanical spring, and that is covered in detail about two weeks back in time on this thread.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html

MileHigh
« Last Edit: 2010-12-01, 06:53:19 by MileHigh »
   
Group: Guest
Rosemary:

I suggest that you go to the Hyperphysics web site and read up on how energy is stored in an inductor.  You should spend a month on the Hyerphysics web site, it could be an excellent learning tool for you.  An inductor is basically identical to a mechanical spring, and that is covered in detail about two weeks back in time on this thread.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/hframe.html

MileHigh

There it is again.  The presumption that I know not whereof I speak.  I put it to you MileHigh that it's YOU who 'know not whereof you speak'.  That you happen to be in good company does not change this fact.  There was a time in our history where the overwhelming majority agreed that the earth was flat.  That did not improve the quality of that company - nor have any material significance on the facts.  And science is about facts.  

Rosemary
   
Group: Guest
MileHigh  In the final analysis this is your thread.  And I feel that you have the right to protect the interests of your thread.  If I am not contributing to these interests - it's only right that I withdraw.  It would be so much nicer to be a part of a thread that is constructive and courteous and clearly - with the difference in our perspectives - it's unlikely to happen. 

I won't comment here again.  I promise you that.

Rosemary
   
Group: Guest


It is true Rosemary. If you build and study Bedini wheel energisers for as long as I have, you will surely learn this fact. MH does know what he is talking about in regard to electrical principles.

Hoppy

Not true MileHigh.  If the rotor turns AND there's an equivalence between what is coming from the battery and back to the battery - the rotor's turn is for free - and then there's evidence of something greater than 1.  What we don't know is whether this is factored into Preston Stoud's tests.  He has simply not given us any measurements at all and yet he's shown a rather presumptuous readiness to voice his opinion on those results.  Experimental results are NEVER based on opinion.  They're based on evidence.  I don't need Aaron's assessment.  None of us do.  Stroud has not shown us anything - one way or another.  And I put it to you that you've rather discouraged anyone at all from that side of the Berlin Wall to show us anything at all - regardless.  And my own irritation at this is because it's particularly hard for me to find out what any of them are saying at all.  It would have been so NICE to simply have those results posted here.
   
Group: Guest
I can see both sides of this argument. Even with 2 batteries if you could continually rotate both batteries and they both never ran down you would have the free work of the wheel turning. But the wheel turning is not performing any use work. If you hook a small genny to the rotor then most likely you change the parameters of the machine and no longer have 100% return charging.

The one thing that struck me as funny in your post Milehigh is that your telling Rosemary to build a Bedini to prove your point.

One point that has also been made is that there is energy traveling outside of the wire. Why wont you consider this power Milehigh. If you can light leds or fluorescent off of it sounds relevent to me.  

Mark
   
Hero Member
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Posts: 2735
@Rosemary
Quote
MileHigh  In the final analysis this is your thread.  And I feel that you have the right to protect the interests of your thread.  If I am not contributing to these interests - it's only right that I withdraw.  It would be so much nicer to be a part of a thread that is constructive and courteous and clearly - with the difference in our perspectives - it's unlikely to happen.
I won't comment here again.  I promise you that.

This is a thread called "Bedini 10-Coil Alternative Discussion" so I think your posts are relevant to the actual topic, that is Alternative: "The choice between two mutually exclusive possibilities" --- Discussion: "Consideration of a subject by a group". As such this thread is not about any one persons opinion, it is about a group of people debating the possibilities as to how the Bedini device may or may not work. I think that your opinion is relevant to the alternative discussion as any other and hope you will continue to contribute.

I should also note that that just because any one person starts a thread, a topic for debate, should not mean they have the right to define how it is debated. If this was the case then there is no real debate nor consideration of a subject only a statement of one opinion. If anyone wanted a thread in which there is no real debate and only mainstream opinions as to why the Bedini 10 cannot work then they should have called this thread-- "Critical opinions of why the 10-Coil cannot work" and not "Bedini 10-Coil Alternative Discussion".
Regards
AC



---------------------------
Comprehend and Copy Nature... Viktor Schauberger

“The first principle is that you must not fool yourself and you are the easiest person to fool.”― Richard P. Feynman
   
Group: Guest
Mark:

Quote
I can see both sides of this argument. Even with 2 batteries if you could continually rotate both batteries and they both never ran down you would have the free work of the wheel turning. But the wheel turning is not performing any use work.

If this was the case the then the wheel turning would still be doing essentially the same thing; burning off some of the alleged free energy and turning it into heat.  The wheel has to connect to something and do useful work in the outside world.  Only then can you say that you are getting mechanical power from the motor.

Quote
One point that has also been made is that there is energy traveling outside of the wire. Why wont you consider this power Milehigh. If you can light leds or fluorescent off of it sounds relevent to me.

It's a generic issue that applies to hundreds of different experiments.  There is no energy traveling outside of the wire.  As was shown the battery terminals and by extension the physical battery case can jump up in a spike of high potential and that can fire a neon light.  This is not a "discovery" and is outside the scope of this thread.  I was not prepared to get into a potentially 50-posting conversation with Rosemary about this topic, it would derail this thread.  Somebody can start a new thread about this subject if they want to.

AC:

You promised to not respond to my postings and I'm sorry but I would prefer if you stayed off of this thread altogether.  Feel free to start your own 10-coiler thread if you want to.  Suggesting that the name of the thread be changed is wrong and opportunistic, it's filled with a myriad of topics about the 10-coiler and the invitation to 10-coiler experimenters to come here and discuss has been posted repeatedly.

MileHigh
« Last Edit: 2010-12-01, 20:33:55 by MileHigh »
   
Group: Guest
Okay, there is some interesting action on the EF forum for the 10-coiler.

The issue is that people are having trouble tuning the device with either a big 10-watt fixed resistor or by ordering an expensive high-wattage potentiometer.  The root cause of the problem is that you are asking one large pick-up coil to turn on all of the transistors for the other nine multi-filar coils.  That's 9 x 8 = 72 transistors that you are trying to turn on in one shot with a single pick-up coil.  What some people might not be aware of is that once you actually switch on the transistor, then the base inputs become conducting diodes.  Once a diode goes into conduction, it's almost the equivalent to a short-circuit.

That means that once the pick-up coil switches on the transistors, it's trying to drive a short circuit.  This consumes a lot of energy from the rotor in the form of Lenz drag.  That's why people are using a single huge 10-watt fixed resistor (which does not allow for any tweaking) or a massive potentiometer, also known as a rheostat.

As far as I am concerned this is a serious design flaw in the kit.

Here are the comments:

Quote
General Question:

Has anyone used a (higher wattage) potentiometer in the trigger circuit of the 10-coiler for ease in tuning? If so, any suggestions as to wattage, turns, and possible resistance combinations? Of specific interest are general guidlines for 24 volt source and 24 volt charging. In addition to the fixed, higher wattage resistors that came in the kits I have a few of these higher wattage resistors of the same manufacturer in my stock. Still, a pot would be helpful. Thanks for any suggestions.

Quote
I don't have a 10 coil device...I built a 12 coil master/slave machine....I presently use a 60 watt pot in the trigger....I exceed the wattage rating of this pot at least two fold for very brief periods...I lost three of these things doing that, you think I would have learned my lesson after the second one went up in a cloud of smoke.....that tends to happen when you pump over 200 watts into this circuit.

I'm looking for 500watt 1K Ohm rheostats, I am also seeking 500watt 1K Ohm tandem rheostats. If anyone has a tip where I can locate either of these at a price that an unemployed man can pay...please PM me....

Quote
I have not had any success with tuning my Rick's 10 coiler to make it easier I purchased a 100 ohm 50 watt pot here "http://www.tedss.com/specSearch.asp?pn=R10050W38X12FWS&ct=Rheostat&em=y "

I have tried for almost 1 year now but still have not found a sweet spot I was however able to charge some truck batteries that I have been conditioning over time with one of my other machines.

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
no

short circuit = zero ohms + Direct Current

Since you are speaking off switching the thing you are describing has a frequency.
Also the 10 Watt fixed resistor or expensive high wattage potentiometer is a fable.
You can very easy wrap your own wire wound resistor and if you add a slider you have your high wattage potentiometer for about 0.25$
Ive made many high power resistors inductive non inductive fixed adjustable and it's bull thinking you can only use that expensive part blah.
   
Group: Guest
Okay, now for some ideas for overcoming this problem so that you can tweak the 10-coiler in a way that resembles a conventional single-coil single-filar Bedini motor.

Earlier on in this thread I discuss a "Cadillac" solution for doing this that is a bit involved.  If I remember it involves using a comparator and CMOS buffers to drive the base inputs of the transistors.  It reduces the Lenz drag on the rotor to zero.  It's deluxe and will work quite well, but I thought of another way to do this that is somewhat simpler and possibly easier.

Here is a proposal to reduce the Lenz drag on the rotor to almost zero and make tuning the 10-coiler comparable to a standard Bedini motor by using extra transistors to provide more amplification and use the source battery to switch on the transistors on and not the pick-up coil (which sucks energy from the rotor).

For starters let's look at each individual drive transistor.  You add a 2N3904 transistor where the collector connects to the source battery +12V, and the emitter connects to the base input of the drive transistor.  The base input of the 2N3904 is now the input to the switch.  This almost looks like a Darlington pair configuration.

In addition, you know how much base current the main drive transistor requires.  Therefore you can limit the current output of the 2N3904 by putting a resistor between the battery +12V and the collector.  Once you have done this you now know how much base input current the 2N3904 requires.  Let's assume that you decide that +4V from the pick-up coil is the switch-on voltage.  Therefore you can put a base input resistor on the 2N3904 also.

The net result is that you have a two-stage transistor amplifier that only requires a tiny fraction of what the single transistor requires.  It also never acts like a quasi-short circuit because the 2N3904 has a base input resistor.  It also switches on and off much faster because you have much more gain.

Okay, so now you have 72 inputs that require much less current than before, so you won't need a humongous 10-watt resistor or huger rheostat to do the tuning.

None the less, 72 inputs is still a lot of inputs, so let's add some more amplification to really make a "clean" design.

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
Okay, so now how do we connect the pick-up coil output to the 72 base input resistors of the 2N3904 transistors?

Probably the easiest way to do this would be to use an NPN transistor in an "emitter follower" configuration.  I am still concerned about the "fan out" to drive so many inputs.  So perhaps something like one emitter-follower circuit per pair of coils (16 inputs).  With nine drive coils you would need five emitter-follower circuits.

Here is the Wikipedia link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_collector

Here is the graphic:



The Vout of each of the emitter-follower circuits could connects to the 16 base input resistors of the 2N3904 transistors.   The emitter-followers themselves could be done with 2N3904 transistors.

Finally we come to the all-important tuning and how to do this.  We have quite a bit of amplification in this circuit now and the power is being supplied by the source battery and not the rotor, which is exactly what we want.

So to do the tuning all that you need to do is connect the output of the pick-up coil to one side of a conventional 500-ohm potentiometer.  The other side of the potentiometer connects to ground.  The wiper from the potentiometer would connect to the five inputs of the emitter-follower circuits.

Now as you turn this single potentiometer, you can tweak the timing of the 10-coiler with ease.  There will be almost to Lenz drag load on the rotor from the pick-up coil.

Note that some of the resistance values are just approximations, they may need tweaking.  I suspect that you could use an even higher resistance tuning potentiometer.

Note also, that you don't even need to have the rotor turning to test and debug this circuit.  You can even do the whole thing with just a multimeter, you don't really need a scope!

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
no

short circuit = zero ohms + Direct Current

Since you are speaking off switching the thing you are describing has a frequency.
Also the 10 Watt fixed resistor or expensive high wattage potentiometer is a fable.
You can very easy wrap your own wire wound resistor and if you add a slider you have your high wattage potentiometer for about 0.25$
Ive made many high power resistors inductive non inductive fixed adjustable and it's bull thinking you can only use that expensive part blah.

Once you are above the roughly 0.6 volts switch-on threshold for the main drive transistors, the 72 transistor input diodes in parallel will nearly look like a zero-ohm differential resistor.  So above 0.6 volts it looks like a short circuit.  In the current setup being used with the kit, once the pick-up coil manages to switch on the transistors through the big common 10-watt base input resistor, then everything above that potential is effectively shorted out.  This clamps the output voltage of the pick-up coil after the 10-watt resistor at about 0.6 volts and puts a big mechanical load on the rotor and burns energy needlessly in the big resistor and in the transistors.  Also, there is no guarantee that all 72 transistors will be perfectly matched, so there is a very good chance that some of the transistors never switch on completely which is not a good situation.

I agree with you that you can make your own high wattage potentiometer.  If you have some experience doing that I suppose that it's relatively easy to do. I was just quoting the owners of the 10-coiler on the Energetic Forum.

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
This posting is directed at Plazma on the EF:

Quote
Thanks for the info and the prompt reply. I agree with Mark about the voltage issue . . . for example, the spec sheet on my Solar 1's suggest 12.75 Volts is fully charged. However, they also suggest a monthly or bi-monthly 'equalization charge' where the charging voltage is taken to 14.5 VDC for about 3 hours so as to fully turn over any stratification of fluids in the individual cells. So, for me, 25.5 volts at a nominal 24 volt arrangement is "fully charged" - and, I am still wondering about the 'equalization' issue. I'd rather get the 10-coiler to do its thing and 'cold-boil' the target batteries.

There are a lot of issues ref the 10-coiler (like what is the correct winding direction on the coils, terminal blocks that, in my opinion were never intended to be bent 90 degrees, base resistor settings for a 24 volt setup, and so forth). Maybe, together, we can get some of these resolved.

Since I have 3, separate 24 volt banks for 'charging' and a 4th bank for excitation, I can charge from the 10-coiler as well as from Xantrex units via solar. The Tesla kick charger takes solar and charges just the excitation bank.

I can discharge the test banks back into my local grid using grid-tie inverters sized beneath the C20 rate of the Solar 1's. Yes, it might take a long, long time to fully condition such a large battery set. However, Bedini says 'the magic is in the battery' so I hope, in the fullness of time, to experience some of that magic

Now that I FINALLY have all of the support infrastructure in place, I can devote full time to just the 10-coiler and its issues.

I would suggest that you read the 10-coiler and oher threads around here to give you a broader perspective, even if you disagree with some of what you read.

Also, I strongly suggest that you do some sort of "reality check" test where you do a charge cycle, then drain off 25% of the energy in the charging batteries, and then swap the charging batteries back into the source battery position and/or do some round-robin swapping and energy discharging. I asked Jeff (Bit's-and-Bytes) several times to do some kind of reality-check test with his 10-coiler setup and I don't think that he ever acknowledged the question.  The proof is in the pudding and my advice is to do the proof-of-concept/reality-check test before you invest massive amounts of time and money into the system.

MileHigh
   
Sr. Member
****

Posts: 276
Hi MH,
The frustration of all of this must give you a headache lol.
The darlington transistor arrangement gives the highest gain but the actual 'switching' speed of the pair is reduced. The gain of the pair is calculated by multiplying the 'hfe' of each transistor so the input current can be calculated. The two transistor arrangement also has two base emitter junctions so the switching 'on' voltage is doubled. If the emitter is grounded its around 1.4 volts but temperature dependant.
You probably know all of this as its basic, but can you enlighten the minds of 'the bedini-ists'. Some will understand but god hasn't spoken, so you deserve the credit you should be getting. I gave up on one group a long time ago. They had their eyes wide open and their minds wide shut.
Respect and credit to you.
steve.
   
Group: Guest
Hi Steve,

I think that this thread is read by some Bedini enthusiasts covertly and they are almost afraid to admit it.  Almost like the way Beatles records were listened to in Communist Russia!  lol  With respect to the Yahoo Bedini group it's almost comical.  They consider me to be the devil incarnate and they encourage people to cast their eyes away and not even look!  If I am such forbidden fruit, it probably means that this thread attracts even more covert viewers.  I am the "alternative" to the "alternative Bedini" promoters.  In other words, the "alternative to the alternative."  They think that what they are promoting is "outside of conventional understanding" without realizing that everything that they are doing is 100% conventional.  It's a topsy-turvy world!

It would appear that the 10-coiler kit has some problems because it is simply a "blind upscale" of a standard Bedini motor with no real thought put in to the fact that you go from an architecture based on a single pick-up coil firing a single transistor to a single larger pick-up coil trying to fire 72 transistors.

For that quasi Darlington pair transistor arrangement I put a current limiting resistor between the +12 volts and the collector of the input transistor to limit the base input current to the main firing transistor to it's logical maximum.  There is no reason to pump extra current into the base inut for nothing.

Putting the resistor on the base input of the 2N3904 transistor serves a similar purpose.  It also makes the pair of transistors look like a voltage-driven switch as opposed to a current-driven switch.  Adding this base resistor does give me some concerns about the overall switching speed, but that would have to be verified on the bench.  My gut feel is that making this input resistor a bit lower than "normal" would speed up the switching again.

For the switching threshold (without the potentiometer in the circuit) it is indeed higher but hat really shouldn't be an issue.  When you think about it, now that you have amplification, who really needs one of the humongous coils of the 10-coiler to act as a pick-up coil.  If you wanted to you could make a smaller pick-up coil with more turns of a smaller gauge of wire that gives you more EMF to work with and offers you higher voltage slew rates.

I am suggesting an emitter-follower setup between the potentiometer output and the quasi Darlington pair switchers.  That is really basic and primitive and I feel it should be adequate.  However, that could certainly be tweaked and improved upon if desired.

If you keep with the standard configuration and use one of the big coils as the pick-up coil, I am pretty certain everything will be fine.  With the extra amplification you should be able to get very fast on and off switching.  The important thing is that all of the power required to do the transistor switching would come from the source battery and not the rotor itself.

So Bedinistas, it's time to "think outside of the box."  Using a big fat 10-watt resistor between the pick-up coil and the 72 parallel inputs of the firing transistor is incredibly poor design that was not properly thought out.  You can use the ideas from the last round of postings to breadboard a proper transistor switching arrangement for your 10-coiler setup.  Have fun and good luck!  You can perfect the switching setup and just add on the extra transistors to the current setup if you wanted.  The 10-coiler should then run much more smoothly and you should have much more precise control over the tuning.

MileHigh
   
Sr. Member
****

Posts: 276
Hi MH,
It stands to reason that god is one with himself, he's followed by his deciples. Any other is the devil or his minions.
Thing is if you designed for them any circuit even one with barium magnets wound so Sweetly and obtained OU, you would still have failed lol.
Then god would declare a spy of you, you would be shamed for it....
A day later it would make headline news, god would speak and you'd see a familiar circuit design (naturally after a few years when the cash flow stops).
One day the deciples will awaken, and see the fire in their god.

Its my interpretation from trying to help with the losses in the base current. Do they ever listen?
Do they not understand about 63% is the maximum return?
My hats off to you!
One day they will see your halo and shout blessed be.....lol
Keep up the work, their comments are full of jesticulation, the entertainment continues....
Steve.
   

Group: Tinkerer
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 3055
MH

Hopefully there are some from the crowd of "followers"
who will appreciate your efforts to stimulate innovative
thinking and sound suggestions for enhancement.

But Szaxx makes a salient point:  the peer pressure within
the "clique" is intense.  Any who "deviate" from the doctrine
of the "Great One" are soon relegated to the realm of the
"unworthies."

The "Masters" of the Cult have studied their customer base
well and are very adept at providing their bits of "magic"
at the proper time to assure the steady flow of cash.

It is a pity to see how Aaron and John and Peter and their
lot take advantage of those who are under-educated and
therefore most susceptible to their dogma.

The "awakening" is always very gradual.


---------------------------
For there is nothing hidden that will not be disclosed, and nothing concealed that will not be known or brought out into the open.
   
Group: Guest
Dumped:

I hope that some people that are interested in both Bedini motors and electronics read the threads on this site and get something out of the material and ideas presented here.  Ideally they would do some serious testing and make serious measurements and accumulate data on their setups.  Just measuring current consumption and RPMs is almost meaningless data.  There is no "radiant energy" and there is no "magic" going on in the charging battery that generates extra energy.  If you are a Bedini enthusiast I suppose that you have to figure that out for yourself.  The threads on here can help you get there.

If you truly understand how inductors work and agree with the ideas presented here, then when you go back and watch or read Bedini you see him in a whole new light.

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
i did some bedini back in 2006 and i am not intrested in his work anymore.
It seems to me he is trying to cash in on bs.
Like That Lindemann is doing too.

 :)
   
Group: Guest
i did some bedini back in 2006 and i am not intrested in his work anymore.
It seems to me he is trying to cash in on bs.
Like That Lindemann is doing too.

 :)

There are people buying electric motors and dismantling them as part of Peter Lindemann's "Lockridge device" replication.  Peter is supposed to be guiding them step by step through the process.

I predict that nobody will get any free energy, I am just wondering how much some of them will spend on the project in terms of time and money.  How will Peter respond when nobody gets any results even though he claims it is real and he can show people how to do it?

Something to watch for in 2011!

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest

I also sense that 2011 will be an interesting year as the realisation slowly sinks in that neither the big wheel or 10-coiler in fact produce free energy. Good money has been spent out on purchasing / building these devices and people will naturally expect to see some clear energy gains. When success in replication has not been forthcoming in the past, JB's response has been to blame this on the builder for not following instructions properly, or to more accurate, not solving his riddles correctly. The big question has already been asked in respect of the Ferris Wheel - what is its purpose? I wonder how long it will take JB to answer this straightforward question.

Hoppy

There are people buying electric motors and dismantling them as part of Peter Lindemann's "Lockridge device" replication.  Peter is supposed to be guiding them step by step through the process.

I predict that nobody will get any free energy, I am just wondering how much some of them will spend on the project in terms of time and money.  How will Peter respond when nobody gets any results even though he claims it is real and he can show people how to do it?

Something to watch for in 2011!

MileHigh
   
Group: Guest
well luckily they are not around here  :)

   
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