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2025-03-31, 22:35:38
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Author Topic: MMG - a high ohm motor with potential  (Read 31934 times)
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Ah-Hah! You have hit upon that feature of the old "whipmag" or OCMPMM that was called "Anti-gearwise" or AGW rotation! The rotating stator magnets of that device were also rotating in the same direction as the main rotor.

It's as though the rotors were connected by a belt, and so turning in the same direction, rather than connected by gear meshes, which would turn them in opposite directions. In the OCMPMM it appeared that the stators were actually driving the rotor. But of course that wasn't really the case, as shown by some high-speed photography.

(Don't let this distract you. The AGW rotation driving does appear to be unusually efficient, though.)
   
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That's pretty cool, hadn't heard of it before.
What got me, was that I didn't touch the right side rotor, it just started going on its own like that. Then at the end, was acting a bit like a flywheel of its own, both pulling the other around if 1 looked like stalling.
Both rotors are all North out btw, just to clarify that aspect.

This one is to be tried with the double reeds idea.
I ran out of time today, as was having issues with the 3rd rotor. For no reason except that the universe is rewriting rules when we get close (lol) it would act like a seizing engine in a car. Difficult to crank around to start it and then pulling up after a few revolutions. The fix was the decoupling trick of putting a ceramic cap in series on the output and that freed up the rotation again, giving good capacitor charging of several mV to the 0.1F with a good hand spin.
The 3 of them will sit the cap at the same voltage when they do sync. It was at 1.040V for a clear 5 minutes, but then they slowly dropped out of sync (universe rewriting again eh). Timing runs were started several times when they seemed stable, but every time the things would desync. All is off from previous experiences, because even recently i've shown 3 or 4 rotors spinning happily away in sync. It must change when they get hooked up to return energy back.
That seizing aspect is a head scratcher, the 1st remote rotor didn't do it, why would a 2nd ?
If one rotor is sped up by hand to only twice its normal 1:1 sync rotation speed, the cap will add a couple of mV.
Getting a rotor to spin at double though with 3 rotors is elusive and frustrating.  
  
 ???


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ʎɐqǝ from pɹɐoqʎǝʞ a ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu
   
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Update:
Tried the double reeds on this one, with it having just 1x 500ohm coil depth rather than 4 deep.
An idea, was to put 1 reed at 180 degrees to the other. That would perhaps limit or even mostly remove the drag toward the reed metals (not the rotation drag). Unfortunately I wasn't able to get any firing. One of those things that needs very patient micrometer by micrometer adjustment I think. Or, the magnets widths are too small, that could easily be the case.

Next then, to bring back the MMG motor itself. I've always been impressed with the speed of rotation, given by Lidmotor's drive circuit.
Resistance was turned up on the Base of the transistor until it no longer fired, with 120K working well on the CFL powering method. If it saves 1uA, it saves 1uA.
The change will be to add pickup coils around the rotor.
I remember that Lasersaber showed his EZ Spin, with 2 driving coils and the rest were pickups. It functioned well as a sort of motor Joule Thief. 6 coils will be added, as 2 banks of 3.
The other, reed powered motor, will have its 8 coils in use as remote pickup coils for this new design.
That'll give 1 powered, 1 return to the circuit, 14 pickup coils.
A sweet sixteen :)

« Last Edit: 2015-02-22, 21:12:06 by Slider2732 »


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Slider:
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That'll give 1 powered, 1 return to the circuit, 14 pickup coils.
A sweet sixteen!

Very cool - and a lot of work, but much appreciated to see how you are progressing.
   
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Thanks Steve. I wish all this could be faster, but am waiting for better than 28F at the workbench. Sunday onwards is looking much better though.


The 8mm x 1mm decent neo's have arrived :)
A quick test has shown that they work fine on a converted rotor, it not needing any rebalancing on replacing the cut HDD magnet pieces.
There's a bit of a trick that the size of these allows too. I use water bottle tops as the rotor formers and inside is a plastic ridge. The magnets fit inside that ridge, such that another clips to the outside readily. That means that distancing can be adjusted if angles aren't perfect and saves a lot of gluing. The method also reduces the chance of flyoffs, when the rotor is spinning at high speed.

Seen in action below, with the rest of the stack in the foreground:





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